What is Microneedling?

Microneedling has, believe it or not, been around for over a century. Back in 1905, a German Dermatologist by the name of Ernst Kromayer introduced the concept by using motor-powered dental burs to treat scars, birthmarks, and hyperpigmentation. Some argue that microneedling began long before this with the ancient practice of acupuncture, though the technique is quite different. Regardless, the strange idea of poking needles in your skin to achieve healing effects has been around for a very long time.

Microneedling as we know it today was pioneered in 1995 by Dr. Des Fernandez, a world renowned Cardiologist and plastic surgeon. We are proud to share that Dr. Des Fernandez is also the founder and creator of our exclusive skincare line at Sunflower MediSpa, Environ Skincare.

Modern Day Microneedling is the process of puncturing the skin with very thin needles to trigger the skin’s natural healing response, in turn producing more collagen and elastin. Through the process we can:

• Improve skin texture and tone
• Restore lost volume in the face due to aging
• Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Lighten or reverse hyperpigmentation
• Reduce visibility of scarring

What are the different types of microneedling?

Microneedling is a broad term, also referred to as skin needling, collagen induction therapy (CIT), Percutaneous Collagen Induction (PCI), and Scar Rejuvenation Therapy (SRT). Not to be confused with Nano Needling (used to infuse serums in only the outermost layer of the skin), Microdermabrasion (a method of exfoliation), or microblading (a form of permanent makeup).

Microneedling Devices

There are various manufacturers of microneedling devices in the industry, each of them claiming their method is “best” and that their competitors’ versions are harmful to the skin. The three device types most referred to are rollers, stamps, and pens.

A roller, like that of a paint roller, containing hundreds of tiny needles is rolled over the skin to create the tiny punctures. Stamps are handheld devices used to stamp needles over a small area of the skin. Pens, the newest type of device, are motorized devices resembling an oversized pen, where needles are mechanically driven up and down as you run the device over the skin.

Device selection was a large portion of our research. As previously mentioned, the manufacturers of these devices are very competitive, and are quick to share why devices unlike their own are harmful. The alleged claim of pen manufacturers is that their device is superior due to the ability to place the needle into the skin at a 90-degree angle, as opposed to the roller method where the needles enter an exit the skin at an in a v-like pattern.

While this seems logical at first glance, our research did not show that the roller method caused damage to the skin. Conversely, we found there was more risk associated with the pens as there is more room for user error – dragging the pen across the skin when the mechanical needle has not yet been fully removed. Pens may also lead to increased downtime as the skin is pushed down and pulled up quickly with the motion of the needle, potentially resulting in greater inflammation. Stamps also offer the 90-degree insertion benefit but are not typically useful in a professional setting as they are more time-consuming when covering a large area.

Cosmetic Microneedling vs. Medical Microneedling (Needle Depth)

Microneedling devices come with a wide variety of needle depths. Some are intended for at-home use or for light professional treatments (Cosmetic), while others are best left to the professionals (Skin specialists operating under a medical director or dermatologists).

Cosmetic Microneedling is defined by the FDA as anything with a depth of 0.3mm or less. Any depth greater is considered Medical Microneedling, and for good reason.

Cosmetic Microneedling does stimulate the skin’s natural healing response to some degree. It also allows your skincare products to penetrate the skin more deeply. It does not, however, penetrate the skin below the outermost later of the epidermis, which is why 1). It is painless; and 2) it does not produce pinpoint bleeding. This is precisely why this level of microneedling is permitted for at-home use and offers much lower risk of infection or skin damage.

Medical microneedling ranges from 0.5mm to 3.0mm in needle depth. While a needle depth of less than 1.0mm will likely produce little to no pinpoint bleeding, it does penetrate the epidermis beyond the outer layer (stratum corneum). Remember, in microneedling, you are opening your skin, which is designed to keep harmful substances out of your body. When opening the skin beyond the outer layer, a medical professional is trained to ensure proper sanitation methods are used and their extensive knowledge of the skin will allow them to make educated decisions regarding which products are suitable to introduce into the skin at a deeper level for your unique skincare needs. The deepest levels of microneedling (2.5mm-3.0mm) are typically reserved for physician use only in the treatment of deep scarring.

RF Microneedling (Radio Frequency)

Radio Frequency has become increasingly popular in the medical aesthetics industry for its skin firming effects. It is believed to provide many of the same benefits of microneedling, using an electromagnetic device to generate heat, stimulating the production of collagen, elastin and new skin cells. This procedure is often referred to as a nonsurgical face lift.

The thought is that, by adding radio frequency to microneedling, you can amplify the effects of your microneedling treatment – using two treatments simultaneously to produce greater results. The devices used for this treatment allow for the needles themselves to generate heat into the skin after reaching their maximum depth. While the science behind this approach indicates that it may be effective, this relatively new procedure is still being researched , currently providing little evidence to support the desired outcomes or predict the long-term impacts of introducing heat into the skin at a deeper level – something we are professionally concerned may cause long term damage.

What is Sunflower MediSpa’s Stance on Microneedling?

In short, we love it!

For hundreds of years, people have believed in the benefits of using needles to heal, and for decades documented research has shown that microneedling, as we use it today, can effectively trigger the skin’s natural healing response. We believe in healing the skin using only safe, effective methods that do not harm the skin, but rather allow the skin to function as it was intended, and microneedling does just that! We are pleased to share that we have officially added Microneedling to our service menu.

Due to lack of evidence supporting positive outcomes and the safety of RF microneedling, we have chosen not to incorporate this into our Menu at this time. We will continue to follow research on this procedure closely to determine if we believe it is a beneficial addition down the road.

Regarding the use PRP with Microneedling, we have found little evidence to support the use of topical PRP application post-microneedling; however, PRP injections do appear to offer the safe and effective results we align with. While we don’t offer this service addition just yet, we are currently exploring the equipment and products we would need to be able to do so.

Our chosen Microneedling method:

Given our research, we believe the best device for microneedling is the roller. While this may not be the trendiest option, it allows the provider to retain control over the speed and pressure during the treatment and eliminates any concern of mechanical failure. We offer cosmetic depth microneedling rollers and stamps for purchase for our clients who wish to enhance their results between treatments with at-home use. In-office, we can offer up to 2.0mm needle depth but prefer to stick with 1.0mm-1.5mm as it is most suitable for the skin concerns of our clients.

Another benefit to using a roller, rather than a pen, is the reduced downtime. Between the device we have chosen, and the products used in conjunction with the treatment, we are able to perform microneedling as frequently as once a week – bringing the total time for a 6 series treatment down from 6 months to 6 weeks and producing optimal results for troublesome areas. The results of microneedling can be seen for up to two years, with results beginning to show within a week of the first treatment and continuing to improve over the course of a few months.

Who Can Benefit From Microneedling?

Nearly everyone beyond a certain age can benefit from Microneedling. As we age, we all lose volume in our face and gain visible signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity (sagging skin), and photodamage. Microneedling can significantly improve the appearance of these common skin concerns, particularly with a series of treatments and the addition of a customized at-home skincare regimen.

Additionally, Microneedling is an excellent treatment for those looking to reduce the appearance of acne scars (or any other scarring for that matter), pore congestion, enlarged pores, hyperpigmentation, dull skin, and rough skin texture – concerns than affect clients of all ages.

Who Should Not Get Microneedling?

Microneedling is suitable for most clients; however, there are a few instances where we would not recommend Microneedling, including:

• Anyone under the age of 22, per FDA guidance
• Anyone with active acne (we can help resolve this with other treatments prior to microneedling)
• Anyone with an active infection (skin related or not), wound healing issues, or a weakened immune system
• Anyone who has taken Accutane within the last 6 months or is currently using a prescription strength product to treat acne, pigmentation issues, or scarring
• Anyone with a bleeding disorders or blood clotting disorder, or who takes medicine to thin the blood or prevent clotting
• Anyone with medical conditions that affect the skin such as Eczema or Diabetes
• Anyone with cancer, or receiving chemotherapy or radiation therapy
• Anyone with a recent sunburn or unhealed facial injury

Other Considerations:

• Wait at least 4 weeks after receiving professional exfoliation treatments such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels, dermaplaning, or any laser treatments prior to microneedling
• Wait at least 2 weeks after receiving Botox or filler injections prior to receiving microneedling

What To Expect During a Microneedling Treatment at Sunflower MediSpa

For the week leading up to your treatment, we ask that you refrain from using any harsh products (Retinol, exfoliation scrubs, hydroxy acids, or acne treatment products). 48 hours prior, we ask that you discontinue the use of any NSAIDs (Ibuprofen, Aleve, etc. – Tylenol is ok). It is also recommended that you schedule a facial with us one month prior and begin our recommended at-home regimen to provide the best possible results, though this is not required.

After prepping the skin with a thorough cleanse, sanitization, and pH neutralizer, we will apply a topical anesthetic and allow it to take effect. We will then remove the aesthetic from each area, one at a time, and perform the microneedling treatment.

Post needling, we will cleanse the skin thoroughly and apply products specifically designed for Microneedling treatments. A series of 6 treatments, as often as once a week, is recommended for optimal results.

What makes our Microneedling Treatment Unique?

With the Pioneer of Microneedling as we know it today also being the founder and creator of the skincare line we exclusively use at Sunflower MediSpa, Environ Skincare, we have access to the professional products best suited to accompany a microneedling treatment. We follow the protocol designed by Dr. Des Fernandez himself and have seen astounding results – not only in the overall outcomes, but in the significant reduction of downtime. Immediately after needling, we see redness and the skin is warm to the touch. After applying a powerful peptide formula and our Alginate mask, known for its ability to calm, smooth and hydrate the skin as well as normalize pH Levels, much of the redness has dissipated. We are so proud to offer this phenomenal treatment without the weeklong “sunburn effect” known to follow.

What To Do After Microneedling

After your microneedling treatment, we will make sure you know exactly what products you need to use at home to produce the best results. Most often, this consists of a cleanser, a peptide-rich serum or elixir, and a moisturizer. The first three days are the most critical and will require more frequent application.

24 Hours post-treatment, you will want to avoid exercise or swimming, and avoid extended time spent in the sun. You may feel dryness or a tightness of the skin, though our method of treatment should significantly reduce this in most clients.

Wait at least one-week post-treatment to:

• Receive Botox or Filler Injections
• Resume use of NSAIDs (ibuprofen, Aleve, etc.)